Bottomless Brunch @ Quaglinos, Mayfair

10 months ago

The Vibe

Opulence, plain and simple. With a grand staircase that dips into a sunken dining room and a platform for a band, Quaglino’s is a Titanic-esque dining room with a hefty dollop of Mayfair bling.

And boy does it have a history. Opened in 1929 by Giovanni Quaglino – a restauranteur from Northern Italy – it attracted a fashionable crowd thanks to great Italian cooking and a lack of stuffiness. In 1993 it was taken over by the Conran Group and patronised by Princess Diana and a swanky London crowd, and in 2004 D&D London took over and once more breathed life into the place.

What most remark about Quags is that it’s a glitzy affair but not crazy expensive. The touches like the grandiose flower displays and house band are a charming nod to the Old World of Mayfair dining, while the newly launched bar – with its faux animal skin touches, dim lights and sparkle, adds a good does of shamelessness to satisfy any young aspirant.

The Order

One thing D&D really know how to do elegantly are bottomless brunches. 2 courses fo £25 or 3 for £29, with the addition of unlimited Prosecco for £15.

On a date, share with 4 Rock Oysters with shallot vinegar, and cured smoked salmon on melba toast. Then for a delicate main, the sea bream with sauce vierge on a bed of crushed potatoes is light with a citrus sharpness balancing indulgent potatoes. For something more brunch-like, the cured ham Croque Monsieur is the stuff of legends.

The Game

Dress for brunch. Men in crisp white shirts and women mostly in trousers, heels, blouses and fancy bags. Even better, wear a goddamn frock.

Wait for your date outside the restaurant so you can descend the staircase together and grab a hand for the journey down. Try to mirror the restaurant’s vibes – smart but not stuffy – with casual chit chat and playfulness. Swap stories from your Friday nights and make plans for the afternoon. Go for the bottomless option but stop after 2-3 glasses (stay classy).

Before you leave, grab a peck on the lips at the top of the stairs and head out for a walk around St James’.

The Faults

If it’s sunny outside, the windowless vibe may not work for all.

Sex Factor

3 for brunch. 5+ for dinner.

The Wolseley, Piccadilly

2 years ago

The Vibe

This Grand European café in St James’ has a history that, for want of a better phrase, is really rather ‘money’. Originally an expansive marble showcase for expensive motors, The Wolseley Car Company sadly never made it through tough financial times and the building was bought by Barclays in the 1920s.  Then finally, once the world had tired of banks and bankers, restaurant titans Corbin and King transformed the Wolseley building into what it should always have been – a haven for decadent dining.

In the great European tradition, you can take breakfast, lunch, tea or dinner here.  Interiors are high and fancy – arches, pillars, gold touches, embossed crockery – and the atmosphere is as buzzy as the dining section of a posh Victorian railway station. It’s London meets Vienna and, for dates, a vital tick box if showing someone the town or simply treating them.

The Order

Rich food, simply presented on large white plates. For breakfast, an Eggs Benedict is the classic. They present it on only one muffin half, piled high with treats – a nice alternative to the quantity over quality of other breakfast joints.  Similarly, a poached egg arrives on a single slice of toast with a quiet ‘whatsup’ of mushrooms on the side – delicious and to the point.  For a light Saturday morning date, order 2 glasses of champagne, several pastries, a caramelised grapefruit and a pot of black coffee. Morsels of the good stuff.

The Game

Whilst the lunch and dinner menu are great, this tends to be the time of tourists, wealthy families, business men and fashion editors. What you want on a date is to meet for breakfast, as part of a longer day of activities. Pick them up in a taxi and alight directly opposite the restaurant.  Tell them in advance to dress up a little – crisp shirt, fur stole.

Coax them into the champagne and talk intelligently on a couple of pre-prepared topics. Use up your full 90 minute sitting, then wander to Dover Street to window shop and end up at the Royal Academy for an early show. Then make your way to the Curzon Mayfair for a naughty morning film in an empty cinema where anything can happen….

The Faults

Rien (nothing). It’s classic glamour.

Sex Factor

2. Pre-game my friend.

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